Koolpin Creek is one of the largest tributaries of the South Alligator River, draining a large part of Kakadu's sandstone plateau. Just before the creek drops into the plains below, it enters a small gorge where it passes over a series of waterfalls. The views are a photographer's delight. Aboriginal art sites tell us that this has been a special place for thousands of years.
This photo was taken during the wet season. Willis's Walkabouts is the only operator who visits the gorge at this time of year.
The Aboriginal traditional owners of the Koolpin area are the Jawoyn people. They know Koolpin as Jarrangbarnmi which comes from the Jawoyn words jarrang meaning flood, or big water flow, and barn meaning rift or gap. Anyone can visit the area, but for most people, doing so requires a high clearance 4WD, a permit and a key for a locked gate. No more than 40 people are permitted in the area at any one time. If you are on foot, you can give the rough 4WD track a miss and hike in from the main road as we do in the wet season.
Although the gorge is only four kilometres long, it is too nice to rush. On all our bushwalks, we take our time, swimming in the many pools, photographing the waterfalls and visiting the many art sites as we slowly trek to a camp site near the top of the gorge. All but one of our Circle Trips begin with a hike through Koolpin.
Several of our Highlights Trips include a loop bushwalk combining Koolpin and nearby Freezing Gorge. Although Freezing Creek is much smaller than Koolpin, it has carved a deep and narrow gorge where the sun seldom reaches the water — hence the name. The pools are just as inviting as those in Koolpin, perhaps more so since very few of the 4WD campers are aware that it exists. Most of those who do set off in search of the gorge get to the lower section where they have to climb over and scramble around large boulders. They think that this is the gorge and go no further, leaving the best part to those who have hiked the full distance.
The bottom photo on the left above shows one of our Koolpin camp sites. Camping next to lovely pools like this and having them all to ourselves is typical on all our Kakadu and Kimberley walks. The top right photo shows one of the more accessible Koolpin art sites. The bottom right photo shows Freezing Gorge.
For more general information, please see
For more information about the Jawoyn people, see the Jawoyn Association website. We particularly recommend having a look at their
You don't need to stop there. The rest of the Jawoyn Association website has lots more interesting information.
Willis's Walkabouts, 12 Carrington Street, Millner NT 0810, Australia walkabout@bushwalkingholidays.com.au
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